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Êàíàäåö îá Óôå - íåìíîãî çàáàâíî

 
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: 10.03.2003
: 8295
: Russia, Ufa

: , 16, 2004 9:16pm     : Êàíàäåö îá Óôå - íåìíîãî çàáàâíî

Âçÿòî îòñþäà: http://www.ufaweb.ru/index.php?cat=15&artid=3216

:

Âñ¸ ÷òî âàì íóæíî çíàòü î äðóæåëþáíîé Óôå.

Äýâèä Êîïïàðä

Åñòü òàêàÿ ôîðìà ïëàíèðîâàíèÿ ïóòåøåñòâèé, êîãäà âû îáðàùàåòåñü ê áðîøþðàì è òóðèñòè÷åñêèì àãåíòàì ÷òîáû óçíàò î ìåñòå íàçíà÷åíèÿ, çàòåì âûáèðàåòå òî, ÷òî ëó÷øå âñåãî ñîîòâåòñòâóåò âàøèì îòïóñêíûì çàïðîñàì. Ýòî êàê àãåíòñòâî "Òîìàñ Êóê" è ëþäè, êîòîðûå çàèíòåðåñîâàíû â âàøåì áëàãîñîñòîÿíèè è õîòÿò, ÷òîáû Âû ïóòåøåñòâîâàëè. Åñòü, îäíàêî, èíàÿ ôîðìà ïëàíèðîâàíèÿ ïóòåøåñòâèé - êîãäà âû êðóòèòå ãëîáóñ, èùèòå ìåñòà ñ ïðè÷óäëèâûìè íàçâàíèÿìè, è âûáèðàåòå îäíî òàêîå, êîòîðîå ìàêñèìàëüíî óäàëåíî îò ìåñòà, ãäå âû æèâ¸òå. Âàíêóâåðöû, êîòîðûå ëþáÿò ýòîò ìåòîä, íå íàéäóò ëó÷øåãî, ÷åì ãîðîä Óôà â Ðîññèè. Íå òîëüêî ðàñïîëîæåíà íà 180 óãëîâûõ ãðàäóñîâ äîëãîòû îò Âàíêóâåðà, íî è íàçûâàåòñÿ Óôà.

Óôà, êàê âû, íåñîìíåííî, íå çíàåòå - ýòî ãîðîä ñ íàñåëåíèåì â 1.1 ìèëëèîíà ÷åëîâåê ðÿäîì ñ Óðàëüñêèìè ãîðàìè, ñòîëèöà Áàøêîðòîñòàíà - ðåñïóáëèêè â ñîñòàâå Ðîññèéñêîé Ôåäåðàöèè. Èâàí Ãðîçíûé îñíîâàë Óôó â 16-ì âåêå êàê ôîðò äëÿ ïðîòèâîñòîÿíèÿ êî÷åâíèêàì. Ñòàëèí ïðèäàë Óôå áîëüøîå ðàçâèòèå, êîãäà îí ïåðåìåñòèë ìíîãîå èç ðîññèéñêîé ïðîìûøëåííîñòè ê âîñòîêó â 1941 è 1942 ãîäàõ. Ñåãîäíÿ Óôà - ýòî ìèðíûé ïðîìûøëåííûé ãîðîä, êîòîðûé íåçíà÷èòåëüíî âîçâûøàåòñÿ íàä íåçàùèùåííîé îò âåòðà ñòåïüþ. Ñ÷èòàéòå, ÷òî ýòî Ýäìîíòîí áåç óêðàèíöåâ.

"Îîîî!" - âû ñêàæåòå. "Êàê æå òóäà äîáðàòüñÿ?" Äà, âû ìîæåòå ïîëåòåòü ÷åðåç Ìîñêâó, íî êóäà çàáàâíåå ïðèëåòåòü â Ìîñêâó è òàì ñåñòü íà ïîåçä. Áèëåò äî Óôû â êóïåéíîì âàãîíå ñòîèò ïîðÿäêà 65 êàíàäñêèõ äîëëàðîâ. Çà ýòó öåíó âû ïîëó÷èòå ïîëêó â êóïå íà ÷åòâåðûõ è âñþ íåîáû÷àéíóþ âîçìîæíîñòü îáùàòüñÿ íà ïðîòÿæåíèè 25-÷àñîâîãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ íà âîñòîê. ß ñåë íà ïîïóëÿðíûé ïîåçä "Áàøêîðñòîñòàí" (íîìåð 40), êîòîðûé ïðèáûâàåò â Óôó îêîëî 8-ìè âå÷åðà. Ïàðåíü îòâåç ìåíà â ãîðîä, íî âû ìîæåòå ñåñòü íà òðàìâàé 1 è 13 è áûòü òàì ìåíåå ÷åì ÷åðåç 20 ìèíóò.

Åñëè âû ïîñëåäóåòå çà ìíîé, âû ïîéä¸òå â ãîñòèíèöó "Àãèäåëü", ðàñïîëîæåííóþ ïðÿìî â öåíòðå íà óëèöå Ëåíèíà. Âû íå ïîëó÷èòå òàì íîìåðà, ïîòîìó ÷òî íåò ñâîáîäíûõ íîìåðîâ íè â "Àãèäåëè", íè â äðóãèõ ãîñòèíèöàõ ãîðîäà. Ñóùåñòâóåò îñòðûé íåäîñòàòîê ìåñòà â îòåëÿõ. Áîëåå òîãî, âñå ãîñòèíèöû îáñëóæèâàþòñÿ ïåðñîíàëîì áðåæíåâñêèõ âðåì¸í, êîòîðûé íåíàâèäèò âàñ è æåëàåò òîëüêî, ÷òîáû âû ïîñêîðåå óåõàëè. Èñêëþ÷åíèåì ÿâëÿåòñÿ äîðîãîé "Ïðåçèäåíò-Îòåëü". Çàêàçûâàéòå íîìåð çàðàíåå, èëè ëó÷øå äîãîâîðèòåñü î ïðîæèâàíèè íà êâàðòèðå ÷åðåç òóðàãåíòñòâî. ß ïîçâîíèë ïàðå çíàêîìûõ, êîòîðûõ ÿ çíàë òóò, è îíè ëþáåçíî ïðèíÿëè ìåíÿ.

Òàê êàê âñå âûøåñêàçàííîå íå äàåò âàì ïîíÿòü, ÷òî ìîæåò ïðîèçîéòè ñ âàìè â Óôå, ÿ ïðèâîæó íåñêîëüêî âîïðîñîâ è îòâåòîâ, êîòîðûå ÷àñòî çàäàâàëèñü áû, åñëè áû ëþäè ÷àñòî ñïðàøèâàëè î ïîåçäêàõ â Óôó.


- Íå áóäó ëè ÿ óáèò?

- Îäíàæíû, êîãäà ÿ ðàññêàçûâàë ñâîåìó ñîòðóäíèêó, ÷òî ÿ åçäèë â Ðîññèþ, îí íà÷àë ãîâîðèòü ìíå, êàê íàäî âûæèâàòü, áóäó÷è ïîõèùåííûì è çàìó÷åííûì. Åãî ðåàêöèÿ áûëà òèïè÷íîé. Âñ¸, ÷òî ÿ ìîãó ñêàçàòü - ýòî òî, ÷òî ÿ ïðîâåë 10 äíåé â Óôå, è ìåñÿö â Ðîññèè, áåç åäèíîãî ïðîèøåñòâèÿ. Òîëüêî äîðîæíîå äâèæåíèå îñòàåòñÿ êîøìàðîì. Ïðîñòî ïîìíèòå î òîì, ÷òî òðàíñïîðò èìååò ïðåèìóùåñòâî âåçäå, âêëþ÷àÿ îáî÷èíû äîðîã, òðîòóàðû è ïåøåõîäíûå ïåðåõîäû. Øàãàéòå áûñòðåå.


- Åñòü ëè â Óôå ýêñêóðñèîííîå áþðî?

- Íåò.  Ìîñêâå åãî òîæå íåò. Åñëè âû îñòàíîâèëèñü íà êâàðòèðå èëè èìååòå äðóãèå ìåñòíûå ñâÿçè, âû, âîçìîæíî, íàéä¸òå äâóÿçû÷íîãî ãèäà ïðè ïîìîùè ëîçîõîäñòâà (*). Åñëè íåò - ýòî áóäåò ñîëüíûé ïîë¸ò. Óëûáêà

(*) ëîçîõîäñòâî: ýìïèðè÷åñêèé ìåòîä ïîèñêà èñòî÷íèêîâ âîäû ïîä çåìë¸é ïðè ïîìîùè êðåïêî çàæàòîé â ðóêå âèíîãðàäíîé âåòâè, êîòîðàÿ ïîâîðà÷èâàåòñÿ â ìîìåíò ïåðåñå÷åíèÿ ïîäçåìíîãî ñêîïëåíèÿ èëè ïîòîêà âîäû.

- Ãäå ÿ ìîãó ïîìåíÿòü äåíüãè è êóïèòü åäó?

- Âû ìîæåòå íàéòè âñ¸ ýòî â "Ãîñòèíîì Äâîðå", äëèííîì ñóïåðìàðêåòå íà óëèöå Ëåíèíà. Îí îòìå÷åí ãèãàíòñêèì ïîñòåðîì ñ Ïóòèíûì, äàþùèì íåïðîøåííûå ñîâåòû ïðåçèäåíòó Áàøêîðòîñòàíà, â áàðå. Âíóòðè âû íàéäåòå è áàíêîìàò, è ñóïåðìàðêåò â çàïàäíîì ñòèëå, ãäå âû ìîæåòå êóïèòü õîðîøèé õëåá è êîëáàñó. Èìåéòå ââèäó ïîëóâîåííóþ îõðàíó íà âõîäå, íî ñîïðîòèâëÿéòåñü æåëàíèþ ïðèâåòñòâîâàòü èõ. ×òîáû ïåðåêóñèòü - ïîñåòèòå îäíî èç íåäîðîãèõ êàôå íà óëèöå Ëåíèíà. Åñëè Âû ìîæåòå ðàñøèôðîâàòü ìåíþ íà ïðèëàâêå, Âû áóäåòå ïðèÿòíî óäèâëåíû öåíîé â $5 äîëëàðîâ èëè äàæå ìåíåå. ß ðåêîìåíäóþ "×àéõàíó", íî ïðèíåñèòå âàøè ñîáñòâåííûå ñàëôåòêè è íå òðîãàéòå çàíàâåñêè (øòîðû).



- Êàê åçäèòü ïî ãîðîäó?

- Óôèìñêèå ïëàíû ïîñòðîèòü ìåòðî ðóõíóëè âìåñòå ñ Ñîâåòñêèì Ñîþçîì. Âû ìîæåòå ñåñòü â ïåðåïîëíåííûé òðàìâàé çà 15 öåíòîâ èëè â áîëåå êîìôîðòàáåëüíûé ìèêðîàâòîáóñ çà 25 öåíòîâ. Âû ìîæåòå èäåíòèôèöèðîâàòü îñòàíîâêè ïî òîëïàì ëþäåé, ñòîÿùèõ íà òðîòóàðå è âûãëÿäÿùèõ îæèäàþùèìè. Åñòü òåîðåòè÷åñêàÿ âîçìîæíîñòü âûÿñíèòü, êóäà èäóò òðàìâàè è ìèêðîàâòîáóñû, íî ÿ íå çíàþ, êàê ýòî ñäåëàòü.


- Íà êîãî ïîõîæè ëþäè â Óôå?

- Ëþäè â Óôå áûëè íàèáîëåå ãîñòåïðèèìíûìè èç âñåõ, êîòîðûõ ÿ âîîáùå âñòðå÷àë. Îäíàæäû ïîçíàêîìèâøèñü ñ êåì-íèáóäü, âû ñêîðî áóäåòå çíàêîìû ñ äþæèíàìè äðóãèõ, è ìíîãèå áóäóò æåëàòü ïðîãóëÿòüñÿ ñ âàìè, óãîñòèòü âàñ, è âîîáùå âîñõèùàòüñÿ âàìè. Òå íåìíîãèå ñ Çàïàäà, ñ êîòîðûìè îíè ñòàëêèâàþòñÿ, ÷àñòî ñòàðàþòñÿ ñîáëàçíèòü èõ, ÷òîáû ïðèñîåäèíèòü ê ÷óäíÛì àìåðèêàíñêèì öåðêâÿì, òàê ÷òî ïîäëèííî ëåíèâûé è äåêàäåíòñêèé Çàïàäíûé æèòåëü - äîëãîæäàííàÿ íîâèíêà. Áóäüòå ãîòîâû â ëþáîé ìîìåíò ê ïðåäëîæåíèþ íàâåñòèòü ÷üþ-íèáóäü ðîäñòâåííèöó èç Ìàãíèòîãîðñêà.


- ×òî çäåñü ìîæíî ïîñìîòðåòü è êàê ðàçâëå÷üñÿ?

- Âîò íåñêîëüêî âîçìîæíîñòåé:

Åñëè âû ëþáèòå òåàòð - âû ñ÷àñòëèâ÷èê. ß ïîñìîòðåë õîðîøóþ ïîñòàíîâó "Àèäû" â Îïåðíîì òåàòðå íà óëèöå Ëåíèíà - âñåãî çà ïîëòîðà äîëëàðà. Îïåðíûé òåàòðà â Óôå - î÷åíü ñòàðîå çäàíèå ñ øèðîêèìè ëåñòíèöàìè è çîëîòûìè áàëþñòðàäàìè. Íà îñíîâíîì ýòàæå òåàòðà âû íàéä¸òå ìåìîðèàëüíóþ äîñêó â ïàìÿòü Ðóäîëüôà Íóðèåâà - ñàìîãî çíàìåíèòîãî óðîæåíöà Óôû.

Óôà íàâîäåíà èñêóññòâîì. Âû óâèäèòå õóäîæåñòâåííûå âûñòàâêè â ñóïåðìàðêåòàõ, ìàãàçèíàõ è íà òðîòóàðàõ ó îáùåñòâåííûõ çäàíèé. Ïîñåòèòå ìóçåé Íåñòåðîâà íà óëèöå Ãîãîëÿ. Îí íàçâàí â ÷åñòü ìåñòíîãî ìàëü÷èêà Ìèõàèëà Íåñòåðîâà, ÷üè êàðòèíû ïîõîæè íà âèäåíèÿ ìîëîäîãî ñâÿòîãî, è îíè òàêæå åñòü â Òðåòüÿêîâñêîé ãàëåðåå â Ìîñêâå.

Ãäå-òî íåïîäàë¸êó îò öåíòðà âû íàéäåòå âîññòàíîâëåííûå óôèìñêèå óëî÷êè 19-ãî âåêà (**). Êàæäîå çäàíèå òóò - ìóçåé, è ïåðñîíàë íå òîëüêî ïîçâîëèò âàì ïðèêîñíóòüñÿ ê ïðåêðàñíûì âåùàì - îíè áóêâàëüíî íàñòàèâàþò íà ýòîì. Îíè çàñòàâèëè ìåíÿ ïîáðåí÷àòü íà ñòîëåòíåì ïèàíèíî, à ìîé ãèä âçÿë â ðóêè äâóõñîòëåòíþþ øàëü. ß óïîìÿíó òàêæå ïðåêðàñíóþ ïÿòèêóïîëüíóþ öåðêîâü, êîòîðàÿ äàòèðóåòñÿ ïî÷òè îñíîâàíèåì Óôû, çà èñêëþ÷åíèåì òîãî, ÷òî êîììóíèñòû ñíåñëè å¸ íåñêîëüêî äåñÿòèëåòèé íàçàä.

(**) âèäèìî, èìååòñÿ ââèäó ëåíèíñêèé ìåìîðèàë íà óë. Êðóïñêîé.

Òàê êàê ìåñòíûå áàøêèðû è òàòàðû - ìóñóëüìàíå, Óôà - ýòî õîðîøåå ìåñòî äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû ïîéòè â ìå÷åòü. Íàèáîëåå ïîðàçèòåëüíàÿ ìå÷åòü íàõîäèòñÿ â ïðèãîðîäå ×åðíèêîâêè. Îíà áûëà íåäàâíî ïîñòðîåíà òóðêàìè è ñíàáæåíà äâóìÿ ìèíàðåòàìè â ôîðìå ãèãàíòñêèõ òþëüïàíîâ. Åñëè âû ïðåäïî÷èòàåòå "ìå÷åòü ñ äóøîé" - ïîñåòèòå ñòîëåòíþþ óôèìñêóþ ìå÷åòü â öåíòðå, êîòîðàÿ íàïîìèíàåò äîì. Êîãäà ÿ ïðèøåë òóäà â ÷åòâåðã âå÷åðîì, ÷åëîâåê ïåë ìîëèòâû íàâåðõó ëåñòíèöû, à äåòè èçó÷àëè àðàáñêèé ÿçûê â ñìóòíî îñâåùåííîì óãëó.

Ìåìîðèàë âîéíû - ìåñòî, êîòîðîå ñòÎèò ïîñåòèòü. Ðàñïîëîæåííûé ðÿäîì ñ áîëüøîé ìå÷åòüþ, îí ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé äðàìàòè÷íóþ ñòàòóþ ïàäàþùåãî ñîëäàòà. Îí òàêæå ïðåäîñòàâëÿåò âàì ïàíîðàìíûé âèä íà ïðèðîäó.

Êîãäà ÿ áûë çäåñü, ïàäàë ë¸ãêèé ñíåã, è âåòåð, ñðûâàþùèéñÿ ñ ðàâíèíû, ïðîèçâîäèë íèçêèé çâóê "øøøøøøøøø", ïðîíîñÿñü ÷åðåç äåðåâüÿ. Ýòîò çâóê îñòàëñÿ ìîèì íàèáîëåå óñòîé÷èâûì âîñïîìèíàíèåì î Ðîññèè. Åñëè ìèñòèêà è ñâåðõúåñòåñòâåííûé ôàòàëèçì, êîòîðûé ÿ îùóùàë âñþäó â Ðîññèè, ìîãëè áû áûòü âûðàæåíû êàê çâóê, ýòî áûë áû òîò äîëãèé è áåçðàçëè÷íûé êî âñåìó ""øøøøøøøøø".

7 ßíâàðÿ 2004 ãîäà.
Everything you need to know about friendly Ufa



By David Coppard-Contributing writer

There's a form of travel planning where you consult brochures and travel agents about destinations, then pick the o­ne that best meets your vacation requirements. This is how Thomas Cook and people who are concerned about your well-being want you to travel. There is, however, another form of travel planning in which you spin a globe, look for places with bizarre names, and select o­ne that's farthest away from where you live. Vancouverites who favour this method couldn't do much better than Ufa, Russia. Not o­nly is it 180 scintillating degrees of longitude away, it's called, well, Ufa.

Ufa, as you undoubtedly don't know, is a city of 1.1 million near the Ural mountains, and the capital of Bashkortostan, a republic within the Russian federation. Ivan the Terrible founded Ufa in the 16th century as a fort from which to fight off woolly-headed nomads. Stalin gave it a big boost when he moved most of Russia's industry eastward from 1941 to 1942. Today, Ufa is a peaceful industrial city that rises undramatically from windswept steppes. Think of it as Edmonton without the Ukranians.

"Ooooh!" you say. "How do I get there?" Well, you can fly there via Moscow, but it's more fun to fly to Moscow and take the train. A o­ne-way second-class ticket to Ufa costs about $65 Cdn. For the price, you'll get a bunk in a four-bunk compartment and all the stilted conversation you can handle during the 25-hour journey east. I took the popular "Bashkortostan" train (#40), which reached Ufa at around 8 p.m. A guy gave me a ride into town, but you can take tram 1 or 13 for a less-than-20-minute ride.

If you follow my lead, you'll go to the Agidel hotel, located dead centre o­n Lenin Street. You won't get a room, of course, because there are no rooms available at the Agidel or any other hotel in Ufa. There is a massive shortage of hotel space. Moreover, all but o­ne of the hotels (and I called them all) are staffed by Brezhnev's embittered
ex-mistresses who hate you and want you to leave. The exception is the pricey yet humane President Hotel. Book ahead, or better yet, arrange a homestay through a travel agent. I called a couple of people I vaguely knew there, and they graciously arranged to put me up.

Since there is no telling what will happen to you in Ufa, here are some answers to questions that would be frequently asked, if people frequently asked about visiting Ufa.

Won't I be killed?

Once, when I told a co-worker I was going to Russia, he began telling me how to survive being kidnapped and tortured. His reaction was typical. All I can say is that I spent 10 days in Ufa, and a month in Russia, without a single incident. o­nly the traffic is scary. Just remember that vehicles have the right-of-way everywhere, including the
sidewalk. Step lively.

Does Ufa have a tourist office?

Nope. Moscow doesn't even have a tourist office. If you're staying in a homestay or have other local connections, you may be able to track down a bilingual guide through the grapevine. Otherwise, you're flying solo.

Where can I get money and food?

You can find both in Gostiniy Dvor, the long mall o­n Lenin street. It sports a giant poster of Putin kibitzing with the President of Bashkortostan in a bar. Inside, you'll find both a bank machine and a Western-style supermarket with good bread and sausage. Note the paramilitary security guard at the entrance, but resist the urge to salute him. For eating out, try o­ne of the low-priced caf's o­n Lenin street. If you can decipher the menu o­n the counter, you'll be able to stuff your face with hearty fare for $5 or less. I recommend Chaihana, but bring your own napkins and don't touch the curtains.

How do I get around?

Ufa's plans for a metro collapsed with the Soviet Union. You can either take an overcrowded tram for 15 cents, or a more comfortable van for 25 cents. You can identify transit stops, as someone helpfully explained to me, by the fact that a lot of people are standing o­n the sidewalk, looking expectant. There's supposedly a way to figure out where the trams and vans are going, but I don't know what it is.

What are the people like?

The people in Ufa were the most hospitable I've met anywhere. o­nce you know o­ne person, you'll soon know dozens, and many will want to take you around, feed you, and generally beam admiringly at you. The few Westerners they encounter are often trying to entice them to join oddball American churches, so an authentically lazy and decadent Westerner is a welcome novelty. Be prepared at any moment to have your palm read or a brick of cheese thrust in your hand, or to be invited to meet someone's cousin from Magnitogorsk.

What is there to see and do?

Quite a bit, if you know what to look for. Here are some possibilities:

If you like theatre, you'll be in luck. I watched a fairly lavish production of Aida at the Opera House o­n Lenin street for about $1.50. The theatre itself is very Old World, with grand staircases and golden balustrades. o­n the main floor, you'll find tributes to Rudolf Nuriyev, famed wearer of very tight tights and Ufa's most famous son.

Ufa is also awash in art. You'll see art displays in malls, stores, and o­n the sides of public buildings. Check out the Nesterov Museum o­n Gogol street. It's named for local boy Mikhail Nesterov, whose spooky paintings of a young saint having a vision in the woods can also be found in Moscow's Tretyakov gallery. Most of the paintings similarly blend mystic and natural themes, and will perhaps give you a little glimpse of the Russian soul.

Somewhere near the centre, you'll find a folksy recreation of a 19th century Ufa street. Each building is a museum, and the staff not o­nly let you touch the cool stuff, they actually insist upon it. They made me bang away at a
century-old piano, and my guide got to manhandle a 200-year-old shawl. I would describe the lovely five-domed church that dates back almost to the founding of Ufa, except that the commies blew it up several decades ago.

Since the indigenous Bashkirs and Tatars are nominally Muslim, Ufa is a good place to go mosquing. The more striking mosque is in the suburb of Chernikovska. It was built recently by Turks and features two minarets in the shape of giant tulips. If you prefer your mosques with soul, however, check out the 100-year-old Ufa Mosque in the centre, which resembles a house. When I arrived o­n a Thursday night, a man was chanting prayers at the top of the stairs, and children were learning Arabic in a dimly lit corner.

The war memorial is well worth a visit. Located near the big mosque, it features a dramatic statue of a falling soldier. It also affords you a panoramic view of the countryside.

When I was there, a light snow was falling, and the wind coming off the plains made a low "shhhhhhh" sound as it passed through the trees. That sound remains my most enduring memory of Russia. If the mysticism and weird fatalism that I sensed everywhere in Russia could be expressed as a sound, it would be that long, indifferent, "shhhhhh."


From http://www.vancourier.com, "Vancouver Courier" free newspaper, Canada January 7 2004




(c) Þðèé Ëåâäèê

Èñòî÷íèê: http://www.livejournal.com/users/ylevdik/28130.html?mode=reply
Andrew
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: 01.03.2003
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: , 17, 2004 1:33am     :

Ñóïåð! Óëûáêà

Îñîáåííî ïîíðàâèëîñü ïðî àâòîìîáèëè èìåþùèå ïðèîðèòåò âåçäå, íà òðîòóàðàõ, îáî÷èíàõ è ò.ä.... Óëûáêà
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: 10.03.2003
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: , 17, 2004 12:49pm     :

ß íà ïîâîðîòàõ âñåõ ïåøåõîäîâ ñòàðàþñü ïðîïóñêàòü. Òîëüêî çàäàëáûâàåò æäàòü, ïîêà äî íèõ äîéäåò, ÷òî èõ ïðîïóñêàþò. Óëûáêà Ñòàíäàðòíàÿ ðåàêöèÿ: ñòîÿò ñ øèðîêî îòêðûòûìè ãëàçàìè (è ðòîì) è ñìîòðÿò ñ óæàñîì íà ìàøèíó. Ñåêóíä ÷åðåç 10 èäóò. Ïîäêàëûâàþ
MaxiM






: , 17, 2004 7:51pm     :

Àðòåì ():
ß íà ïîâîðîòàõ âñåõ ïåøåõîäîâ ñòàðàþñü ïðîïóñêàòü. Òîëüêî çàäàëáûâàåò æäàòü, ïîêà äî íèõ äîéäåò, ÷òî èõ ïðîïóñêàþò. Óëûáêà Ñòàíäàðòíàÿ ðåàêöèÿ: ñòîÿò ñ øèðîêî îòêðûòûìè ãëàçàìè (è ðòîì) è ñìîòðÿò ñ óæàñîì íà ìàøèíó. Ñåêóíä ÷åðåç 10 èäóò. Ïîäêàëûâàþ
À ìîãóò è ñêàçàòü, ÷åãî, ìîë âñòàë, òàêîé - òî è òàêîé Ñìåõ Ñìåõ
Andrew
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: 01.03.2003
: 10421
: Èðêóòñê, RU -> Los Angeles, US

: , 17, 2004 11:18pm     :

MaxiM ():
Àðòåì ():
ß íà ïîâîðîòàõ âñåõ ïåøåõîäîâ ñòàðàþñü ïðîïóñêàòü. Òîëüêî çàäàëáûâàåò æäàòü, ïîêà äî íèõ äîéäåò, ÷òî èõ ïðîïóñêàþò. Óëûáêà Ñòàíäàðòíàÿ ðåàêöèÿ: ñòîÿò ñ øèðîêî îòêðûòûìè ãëàçàìè (è ðòîì) è ñìîòðÿò ñ óæàñîì íà ìàøèíó. Ñåêóíä ÷åðåç 10 èäóò. Ïîäêàëûâàþ
À ìîãóò è ñêàçàòü, ÷åãî, ìîë âñòàë, òàêîé - òî è òàêîé Ñìåõ Ñìåõ

Ñìåõ
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: 10.03.2003
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: , 18, 2004 1:08pm     :

Ñèìïàòè÷íûé òåêñò. È ïåðåâîä íåïëîõ, õîòü è óïóùåíà ïàðà ôðàç...
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